Ukishima Diary

September, 2002

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23rd. Sept. Moris came to visit in Ukishima
Mori came with his children. He cocked "Hittsumi" soup for lunch. Atsushi's picking up Gumi berries.(HK)
21st. Sept. Sean's Birthday at home
REAL birthday again! (HK)
20th. Sept. Sean's Birthday spent flying home
Sean's 7th birthday today on the plane. Really lovely to have all these hours with the children after not seeing them for weeks.

The Captain invited Sean and Emily into the cockpit as a birthday treat after we landed in Narita (with tighter security it is no longer possible to do this during the flight). (KT)

19th.Sep. - London to Tokyo

We set up my marble light sculpture "Book of Light" (which I sent from Japan before we left for Lebanon) for Phillida and Christopher. Thank you both, your purchase of my sculpture sponsored our particiaption in the Rachana International Sculpture Symposium in Lebanon and has given us the most wonderful research opportunity. Thank you also for having us to stay for the last 3 days.

This morning we said goodbye to Phillida and her family and set off for Heathrow to meet Emily, Sean and Ann chan arriving from Edinburgh. Great to see them again after 3 weeks. Then the four of us flew back to Japan.

18th. September - London
After a meeting at the Royal Society of Briitish Sculptors to discuss becoming members, we spent the day visiting galleries. One of the best exhibitons is the "Cow Parade" lifesize cast cow sculptures painted by different artists set all over London - tube stations, street corners, parks, etc...every where we went. Outside the Houses of Parliament there was another cow in Lord`s gowns.

Went to hear our friend Barbara singing with the Helen Chadwick Group in a concert for the Mayors Summer Festival in Trafalgar Square (Barbara told us this was on after we met up with her, Lucy and John for a meal last night).

The Royal Society of British Sculptors.

Barbara singing in Trafalgar Square.

17th. September - London
Spent a lovely evening with Phillida and Christopher last night. Then met up with Mike and Maitou to see the Tate Modern together. The conversion from power station to art gallery has been beautifully done. The galleries have been set out with educaton very much in mind and are hugely popular. Walked over the Millenium Bridge - I was really looking forward to seeing this collaboration between architect (Foster), sculptor (Anthony Caro) and engineer (Ove Arup) but was disappointed with the result.

The new dome roof of the Great Court at the British Museum works wonderfully well. We were hoping to study Lebanese, Syrian and Egyptian rooms to follow up on the last few weeks, but ran out of time and only managed flying glances before being bustled out as the last visitors. (KT)

Tate Modern seen from the Millenium Bridge over the Thames. The Great Court at the British Museum.
15th. September - Our last day in Cairo
Both Kata and I have both been yearning to visit Giza since before we me each other. After seeing so many wonderful examples of ancient Egyptian art and tracing the development of pyramid architecture from Saqqara to Dashur over the last few days it was amazing to see the geometrically perfect Great Pyramid of Khufu. Surprising details such as the huge black granite paving slabs; the red granite facing blocks at the base of the pyramid which have been pillaged as a quarry by later residents; and the way the base of the pyramid is carved from the bedrock on one side made seeing it with our own eyes even more fascinating. And seeing later Islamic, Coptic and contemporary Arabic art, architecture and culture Cairo has been a perfect follow through after our visit to Lebanon.

But instead of being satisfied by this incredible visit we are now determined to go back to these sites, and long to explore Luxor and more of Egypt.

Although we got here at 8am the limited tickets to go inside the Great Pyramid were already sold out to a couple of bus tours. There was still plenty to see.

It was strangely easy to ignore the hoards of tourists and imagine the site in its hey day. But Kata could not resist taking this classic tourist shot of me on the causeway from the Mortuary Temple to Chephren`s pyramid (he chooses the photos for this diary). The causeway is levelled from bedrock with quarried slabs filling the gaps.

The Solar Boat Museum is one of the highlights at Giza. Five boat pits were discovered at the foot of Khufu`s pyramid. This elegant 43 m long boat made of cedarwood (probably from where we have just been in Lebanon) was inside one of them (next to the boat you can still see the pit carved from bedrock and roofed with huge quarried slabs). Another boat discovered in 1987 has been left buried.

No one knows exactly what they were used for, but possibly to carry the dead king along the Nile to his tomb.

The Sphinx defies fascination with the mystery of who built it and when to be oddly disappointing face to face. As Allan Bennet commented on seeing it "It`s a bit like meeting a famous film star in the flesh".

Much more interesting was the Mortuary Temple next to the Sphynx. We spent ages examining the huge blocks used in its construction which appear to have been set on top of eachother and then carved back to create perfect planes, sometimes turning corners to make stronger structures with shapes and irregualr sizes I recognise from photographs of Machu Picchu in the Andes, and was not expecting in Giza. Occasional blocks of polished black or red granite are set into the limestone walls which were probably also highly polished. The proportions of the blocks and the space created between them and impressive pillars are stunning. Must have been gorgeous when it was still used to receive funeral barges directly from the Nile.

We took Grant and Claire out for a dinner cruise on the Nile. - this is the life.

14th. September - Cairo - The Islamic Art Museum, Citadel, and Coptic Cairo
I speak no Egyptian apart from no doubt mispronounced "shukran" (thank you) "min fadlak" (please to a woman) "min fadlik" (please to a man) "anwa" (yes) and "la`a" (no) but these combined with my hideously inelegant (compared to the lovely Egyptian ladies) efforts to cover up seemed to make everyone smile.

The Islamic Art Museum

The guides here were enchanting and despite limited common language made their best efforts to explain things to us without the constant requests for "Baaksheesh" that are so obvious in most tourist sites.

One of the many rooms crammed with beautiful Islamic artefacts, furniture, fittings and fixtures.

We were invited into this restoration room to watch them working and touch the gorgeous carpet.
19th century Mosque of Muhammad Ali at the Citadel which can be seen from all over Cairo. Inside the decor is over the top. Despite my ramshackle appearance I was allowed in without having to put on one of the green coveralls doled out to more scantily clad tourists.
next door the 14th centruy Mosque of el-Nasir is much more elegant, although many of the pillars seem to have been "re-cycled" from Roman sites. There is a strange mixture of granite and limestone pillars tacked on to mismatching pedestals and capitals. But the space is beautifully proportioned and having lost the roof in a fire years ago the light streams in to create magical effects. Beautiful tiled mosaic on the back wall next to an intriguing stepped pulpit - must find out more about these. Restoration work underway in Coptic Cairo - stood and admired the highly skilled masons carving the limestone blocks for ages. At the Coptic Museum we saw beautiful artefacts from 200-1800AD showing ancient Egypt`s influence on early Christian design like Christian crosses developed from the pharonic ankh (key of life). Gorgeous ancient illuminated manuscripts (including a 1,600 year old copy of the Psalms of David), and the oldest known stone pulpit from the St Jeremiah monastery in Saqqara (6th centruy).
I loved this oil lamp handle which was made centuries ago as a symbol of the harmony between the Christian and Islamic communities in Cairo. As a daily utensil it must have been a very effective piece of positive propoganda. Our friend Grant took us out on the Nile in a Felucca - a heavenly way for Kata and I to celebrate our 11th wedding anniversary. Then out for a meal followed by apple tobacco in sheesha. We never had a honeymoon, and have not had a proper holiday since we got married, but largely thanks to Claire and Grant`s wonderful hospitality this trip has more than made up for that - thank you both. (KT)
13th. September - Egypt - Cantering through the desert at Giza.
Claire, 2 of her children and several friends set off in a caravan of about 10 to ride throught he desert around the pyramids. I was very nervous so asked for a docile beast. Just as we were setting off the groom told me to steer my horse carefully as she is blind in her left eye thanks guys! The desert is surprisingly rocky and I ended up being so worried about my poor horse that I had to regain my confidence for her sake and ended up having a wonderful time. Cantering through the desert has to be the most romantic way of seeing this long dreamed of site (and I have the bruises to prove it was not a dream) (KT)
The riding club directly in front of the Giza pyramids. John Wayne in front of the stable with the hideous wall being built by Unesco to protect the pyramids just behind him. I understand the necessity for it but it`s a shame they could`t find a less intrusive design within budget. Kata photographing the pyramids from horseback...!
The pyramids at Giza as seen from horseback (I`m the one in the far distance with Claire galloping after me not realising that the groom had said it was OK for me to try going for a canter and thinking that my horse had bolted with me.) Having successfully talked me into getting on a horse for the first time since I was a teenager, Claire insisted we should try a camel! ?...Why we left the camera with the least experienced rider I do not know, but Kata did very well from his precarious position and even managed to get part of himself into this shot.
Several of Grant`s friends are engineers or geologists so we had some fascinating conversations about how the Egyptians built the amazing pyramids we have been admiring. In the evening Claire and Grant had organised a Galabaya party to introduce us to some of their friends and Egytian food. Kata and I felt very exotic dressed in our Galabayas, relaxing on the roof terrace after helping to set up for the party (good for covering up the bruises too - not sure if I will ever be able walk again after today`s ride).
12th. September - Egypt - "Claire`s Guided Tours" Memphis, Saquara and Dashur today
Everywhere we were told "flash no problem" if we gave "backsheesh", and many guides were very irritated with our response "flash problem - flash broken!" Apart from not damaging the delicate paintwork still clinging to the limestone surfaces, I think we probably got better photos by not using a flash.

Soon discovered that the best way to deal with endless hands extended for backsheesh was to offer my own hand back in a handshake. Egyptian people are very hospitable and have a lovely sense of humour so this was usually well received. But the poverty is so extreme that we are rich by comparsion and I tried to get hold of small denomination notes to be able to give something at least sometimes.

Driving towards the Red Pyramid. No-one else there apart from two policemen on camels, desperately pleeding for backsheesh to supplement their pathetic salaries. We shared our picnic breakfast of Claire`s homemade scones and coffee with them. The Bent pyramid at Dahshur, most of the polished limestone casing is still in place, and at the corners fascinating glimpses of the structure of the block construction can be seen. The ceiling of the main burial chamber inside the Red Pyramid at Dahshur.

Rather like Kata`s sculptures in reverse.

Date palms
King Djoser`s Stepped Pyramid built by Imhotep at Saqqara in 27th century BC entrance to the Red Pyramid, considered the first true pyramid Inside the Pyramid of Teti, Just as we were going down the precarious steps there was a power cut so we backed out to let a troup of terrified tourists escape. The power came back on almost immediately, but by this time we had the place to ourselves. Delicious Egyptian food!
Claire has become an expert at guiding people round pyramids and led us through the main sites.

Inside several mastabahs we saw the most incredible reliefs. It appears as if some of them were finished in a hurry, and we noticed that teams of craftsmen evidently went through the complex of rooms following the process through as we could see different stages of work in reverse order from the last room: drawing in red ochre, rough carving of the outline, carving of the form within the line, fine finishing, and painting. A wonderful chance for us (2 stone sculptors) to study their techniques. (KT)

The massive statue of King Rameses at Memphis, not much else left to see of the world`s first imperial capital. Inside the 6th Dynasty mastaba of the Vizier Mereruka are some of the finest reliefs in the Old Kingdom, and this imposing life size statue.
11th. September - Egypt -Cairo Museum & the Sound and Light Show at Giza

We arrived in Cairo last night and were met by BP`s "Meet and Assist" agent (arranged by my school friend Claire) who steered us through the potential nightmare of Cairo airport into their car and straight to Claire and Grant`s house in the suburb of Maadi where it soon seemed like only a couple of years rather than over 20 since I last spent any time in Claire`s company.

Explored the Cairo Museum 3,000 years worth of Egyptian art (only part of the collection is on display but still far to much to see in a lifetime let alone one morning). Wonderful to see and touch so many gorgeous pieces up close without the high security which surrounds them exhibited outside Egypt. I nearly fell into a wooden crate in the middle of one corridor to find myself nose to nose with the Bust of Akhenaten which had just arrived back from Japan.

Tutankhamun`a treasures. the beautifully crafted mask is surprisingly roughly finished on the inside. Exquisite jewelry among the 1,700 grave goods.

By evening Claire we were delighted to get back to Claire`s house to sit down with a cool drink. But after feeding us she pushed us back out to see the "Sound and Light Show" at Giza. Disney would have been proud of the cheezy commentary, but the site`s dignity survived more than intact and the lighting did provide some incredible impressions.

Exciting to see Giza for the first time - we will go back to see it on horse back on Friday, and on foot on Sunday.

Then on to visit the Khan el-Khalili (originaly built in 1382, reconstructed in 16th century.) where almost anything can be bought from cheep souvenirs to expensive gold jewellery to everyday vests. We only bought Galabayas to wear for the party Claire has organised on Friday.

At the Sayyidna El-Husayan mosque , thinking of the date, I made a silent appeal for religious tolerance and peace just in case any one up there might have been listening. (KT)

9th. Aug. Last day at the 9th Rachana International Sculpture Symposium, North Lebanon
Alfred and Mari Basbous The finished work: Kata`s Kate`s Fabrizio`s Yves` and Mariano`s
8th.September
Our last lunch together in Alfred and Mari`s garden. "Kesak"

We all spent the day discussing ideas (KT)

7th.September Grand Closing Ceremony for the 9th Rachana International Sculpture Symposium, North Lebanon
Posing for a battery of press photographers.

From left: Mariano, Yves, Kate, Alfred, Fabrizio and Kata

Fadi, and Alfred presenting me with the Rachana symposium bronze trophy he has made for each of us. Therese Basbous read a beautiful, sensitive poem she had written about the sculptures we had all made which was deeply rewarding, showing us all that she had really looked and understood. Mariano was nearly in tears. Above: press and guests viewing the finished work & below: All lit up for the evening reception. From left: my sculpture, Kata`s, and Fabrizio`s
6th.September - last working day - 9th Rachana International Sculpture Symposium, North Lebanon
Tomorrow is the grand closing ceremony for the sympsoium and opening of the exhibition of finished work, so we were all frantically finishing.

Amazing what you can do in 10 days when all you have to concentrate on is sculpture!

In the evening we all gave a slide talk on our work. (KT)

5th Sept.
The pressure is on to finish our sculptures. After working flat out in the heat today I was delighted to be able to jump into the swimming pool at our hotel on the coast. By this time in the evening the pool is usually deserted, but tonight a Muslim family taking advantage of the cover of darkness and lack of scantily clad tourists adorning the poolside, joined me. All the women still covered from head to toe could not actually swim with the weight of their clothes and stayed at the shallow end (where my towel was). I swam around in the deep end trying to work out the most tactful way of getting out of the pool and retrieving my towel until I just had to make a dash for it. (I was by this time so cold I perhaps looked as if I was wearing a blue body suit rather than just bathing costume.) (KT)

4th.September - Lebanon - Grand day Out Khali Gibran Museum, The Cedars, and Baalbek

Gibran Museum (a former monastery carved out of and built onto the living rock). Khalil Gibran is Lebanon`s most famous literary figure. 11 years ago Kata and I used an extract from his "The Phrophet" for our wedding ceremony - was one of the few texts which seemed appropriate at the time to celebrate a marriage between our two different cultures. I would have loved to plunder his bookshelves which held a fascinating collection of philisophical, artistic, cultural and religious texts from around the world. His paintings were interesting in the context of illustrating his literary ideas (very similar in atmoshere to William Blake`s watercolours), and some of the charcoal drawings were lovely artworks in their own context.
The Cedars - all that is left of the huge Lebanese cedar forests which used to cover the Lebanese mountains and made Lebanon rich and famous from the time of the Ancient Egyptians - many sarchophogi and the original Temple of Solomon in Jerusalem were built from this fragrant, durable wood. Only about 12 trees over 1000 years are left. Although it will be centuries before they mature new plantations of seedlings are now being established nearby by the enchanting man who invited us for coffee at the exit of the fenced off site.
Another Lebanese feast in Aanjar.

After seeing so many wonderful sites in the blazing sun we were delighted to sit down in a fresh cool restaurant next to a rushing water fall, and then be presented with a feast.

Nargileh - water pipe used to smoke apple flavoured tobacco. A perfect relaxation after so much site seeing and good food.

I did not realise til after we left Aanjar that is the site of a rare example of Umayyad (the first great dynasty of Arab Muslim rulers based in Damascus) architecture circa AD 705. I do not think I would have sat there enjoying the nargileh if I had known what was so close by, but also do not think that any of us could have walked another step.

The Baalbek ruins dwarf even the amazing site I saw at Ephesus in Turkey several years ago. The sheer scale defies credibility. The 6 remaining columns from the Temple of Jupiter are the largest in the world standing 22.9m high with a girth of 2.2m, even a section of the entablature that has fallen to the ground makes me (178cm tall) look tiny, and just below are the largest building blocks of stone used anywhere in the world weighing about 1000 tons each. The site survived succesive colonisations and earthquakes well, but in the 19th century the metal clamps and dowels holding blocks together were removed to make bullets making all the structures vulnerable to the slightest tremor. A day spent marvelling at nature and humanity`s creative genius punctuated by illustrations of mankind`s more destructive tendencies. (KT)
3rd.September - Spanish evening - 9th Rachana International Sculpture Symposium, North Lebanon

Tonight Mariano cooked us all a delicious seafood paella.

Mariano is so confident working in stone (he brought most of his own tools with him, and has worked with similar material in Spain), and today I was really impressed watching him teaching a woman and her two young children the basics of stone carving and letting them have a go on his nearly finished sculpture - apparently unconcerned that they might smash one of the perfectly cut fine edges he has carved.

By contrast he seemed nervous about his Paella working with different tools and materials than he is used to.

Although he insisted that he did not need any assistants, Kata was determined to get his chance of the "quality control" study method. And like last night`s Japanese meal it became an international culture event with everyone coming along to watch even if they were not allowed to help.

Before becoming a sculptor 40 years ago Mariano spent several years as a professional soccer player in the French second division, so speaks fluent French. Kata says that he could not understand a word of what Mariano was saying (and is not even sure if he was speaking French or Spanish) but somehow as Mariano just keeps talking as if there is no language barrier, and they understand eachother`s very well.

Language and cultural differences demand clearer thinking to explain one`s ideas, and sharper concentration to glean understanding.

Although sculpture is a non verbal language, the work by Lebanese, Moroccan and Syrian sculptors we have met here has a different visual vocabulary and form despite common international influences.

This new Arabic context combined with watching the 3 other European artists and Kata working on their sculptures while I work on my own is fascinating. (KT)

2nd.September - Japanese evening - 9th Rachana International Sculpture Symposium, North Lebanon
Kata made a Japanese meal for supper for everyone - we brought nori (seaweed paper), miso (soya been soup stock), dashi (fish stock), sake (Japanese rice wine), etc. with us from Japan and Lebanese fish for the main dish - sushi. I had promised to help, but was so busily working on my sculpture (only 3 working days left to finish) I did not realise how late it was til it got dark. Having packed up washed and changed in a panic I raced into the kitchen in Alfred`s house to find Mariano and Rhona already helping the master chef, and set to making nori maki. Mariano`s "quality control" was so enthusiastic I was getting worried there would not be enough left for everyone else, especially as more and more people seemed to be arriving for a feast, most of whom were popping into the kitchen to offer help and picking up samples. Activity in the tiny space was frenetic. In the confusion of different languages I was getting everyone mixed up, and discovered as a result that the lovely Sri Lankan maid who works for the Basbous family actually speaks English and not French (up til now I had been jabbering away at her in bad French thinking she was just terribly shy). Amazingly there was enough food left to serve in the garden and we had a great party with all the sculptors, extended Basbous family, and several friends. (KT)
1st.September - The crane came to turn everyone`s stones today/ Elma`s Birthday party

Marcel (who always drives us up from the hotel to the working site) did not turn up until we managed to get him on the telephone to discover that he thought we were having a day off as it is Sunday. By the time we got up to Rachana the antique crane was already moving sculpture. Mariano jumped out of the mini van as soon as it had nearly stopped with his heart evidently in his mouth at seeing his sculpture swinging in the breeze. The Lebanese limestone is wonderful material - very soft to cut and carve, but a fine strong grain which can hold intricate form. Mariano who is a fantastic technician was horrified at the way they were handling his piece, but it was fine.

In the evening there was a feast in Anachar`s garden for his wife Elma and son`s birthday party. Idyllic garden setting surrounded by candles, sculpture, and tables laden with good food and drink.

The Basbous sculptors appear to be slapdash in their handling of sculpture, but they know the limits of the material. When I wanted to lie my piece down a few days ago I asked Toni if I could use the tripod with block and tackle, he just looked at me as if I was being a real wimp, called Sami and Samir over and the 3 of them shoved until it tipped onto the ground - I nearly had a heart attack, but there was not a chipped edge, who needs machines when you have these guys!

Even with the crane there, Basbous style seems to be why use a machine if you can do it manually. (KT)


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