Lebanon is full of the most beautiful women I have ever seen, and they know how to look gorgeous. Dim lighting, delicious food, good wine, and our host telling me how refreshing it was to meet a woman who uses her artistic talent to create sculpture rather than enhancing her looks did my ego a power of good! (KT)

Just as we were about to sit down for lunch today the local beauty queen, Miss Batroun and her press entourage suddenly arrived, as the Rachana symposium is on her list of important diplomatic duties. The men were frustrated by the fact that all the beautiful women were more interested in talking to me, the only professional woman sculptor there.

We all moved into this resort hotel on 25th August, and are beginning to get the system sussed. Despite the apparent sophisitication you have to ask for everything, from soap, to loo paper, to how to work the boiler for the shower.

But very beautiful, and the best accomodation I have ever had during a sculpture symposium (America having surprisingly been the worst, Europe practical, and Japan the most varied) (KT)

Although the salvageable buildings are restored, many were too damaged by the civil war to be saved. Several young architects we have met complain that the reconstructed "spirit of the original' is pastiche, but although I can understand their frustration at a missed opportunity, reassurance was needed that the symbol of Lebanon`s past prosperity has not been entirely swept away but is up and running again. "Quick and cheep" obviously dictate much of the new building, but I hope young talent will be given other opportunities to prove that Lebanon`s hybrid culture is still alive and developing.

There was a very impressive exhibition of aerial photographs of incredible sites from all over the world - a wonderful way of making art accessible to a wide audience by literally taking the gallery out into the streets snaking through the city centre.

Trying to keep the assembled party assembled was a challenge (thankfully not mine), but we eventually found Zena and Nabir and moved on to a wonderful traditional Lebanese restaturant where the music was just itching to be danced to. Several people at the next table got up and demonstrated the exotic, provocative Arabic dancing which I was dying to try.

But despite my best efforts no-one at our table could be persauded to dance with me until, just as we were leaving, Alfred started dancing and everyone joined in, continuing out into the street and into the mini bus. Even more so than in Japan the head of the family seems to lead the way.

This is the most tasteful of the tourist 'attractions' that have built up around the site since it was re-opened to the public in 1995. The Director of Jeita came to meet us and ask what we thought of this new embellishment...there was an awkward silence among the assembled sculptors (who had just been having a good crack at it), so I ended up jumping into the breech making polite noises about it being a very good example of the genre. And once I was forced to think positivley realised that it is pretty impressive - made from 3 huge blocks of stone expertly joined...all this in my shakey French while being heckled in English and Italian from the gallery.

Despite initial annoyance among all the artists at this interruption, it was well worth it. (Unfortunately photography was prohibited inside the caves - so above is a photo of Fabrizio who is completely fascinated by the gorgeous Lebanese women, and totally distracted our tour guide from her job - which allowed us all the luxury of uninterrupted appreciation of the gorgeous caves.)

After walking through the upper caves, we took the boat ride into the magical lakes in the lower caves. I was amazed at how much water appeared to be falling from the ceiling, and was wondering if this could be why fewer stalegtites had formed, meanwhile the boat was being rocked by laughter - Mariano was throwing water at me from behind.

(KT)

Most of the Lebanese people speak fluent French as well as Arabic, and many speak good English, but there is not a single common language between all the artists, so this is going to be interesting! True to the Platonic origins of the symposium one important phrase we have all learnt is the Arabic for "cheers" which is different if you are toasting a man "Kesak" or a woman "Kesik", and there is usually a chorus of this toasting everyone around the table followed by an echo in every language anyone can remember.

Speaks Italian, Spanish and English

Speaks Spanish and French

Mariano (72 years old) set to straight away carving away at his block with more ghusto than any of the rest of us, even Fabrizio who is half his age, could probably muster.

Speaks English, some Japanese, rusty French, and almost fossilised Italian.

My stone is smaller than I asked for so spent most of the day re-planning.

Speaks French and Italian

Speaks Japanese, German and English

Kata`s stone - he had to get the biggest one!!

The climb up the steep narrow limestone outcrop foundation was worth it, inside the incredible views from intimate nooks and cranies highlight the magical atmosphere of the setting.

Although we warned him that we were not buying customers, the head of one family workshop took us through to the back to show us his sons working.

Watching the two craftsmen drawing the pattern , then chasing the line with hammer and chisel, and being allowed to investigate all their tools while their father explained the whole process was fascinating.

There is a dramatic sense of place looking down over the "3 cities". The half ruined walls, archways and staircases create theatrical spaces which are apparently more concerned with form, space and light than military function.

He took us to see this garden instead!

The range of architectural styles from ancient to Medieval to modern makes it a fascinating city to explore.

The contrasts between rich and poor, Islamic and Christian, devout and liberal, traditional and modern is evident in the clothes people are wearing, from beautifully tailored elegant suits, black barakas, worn cotton gowns, to skimpy vests and tight jeans.

We explored the endless warren of alleys in one of the city's many souqs (markets).

Subsequent invasions and colonisation by Amorites 2150 BC, Hyksos 1725 BC, Egyptian 1580 BC (one of the most prosperous periods when the linear alphabet was developed by the Phoenicians), 725-612 BC caught between the Greeks and Assyrians, then the Neo-Babylonians, the Persian Empire, from 63 BC Rome became a major trading partner until the Islamic invasion in 636 AD, Crusadors in 1098, and Turks in 1516.

All of which left an incredible heritage of hybrid art, architecture, culture, and mythology. (Later the Crusaders and then the French added their influences.) (KT)

Alfred and Marie picked us up from the hotel and took us to sample the gorgeous local sweets in a cafe in Batroun before going back to Alfred`s house. We then spent a fascinating day exploring Rachana and being shown round the various studios and galleries by the family. (KT)

In the foreground is Alfred Basbous` concrete sculpture representing international exchange which acts as the title image for the symposium.

Maybe our place in Ukishima will be as idyllic after another 30 years! Good to see that the plans we have been working towards over the last 10 years are not so crazy.

Much of the coastline in Lebanon has been developed, and there are plans to develop more of it. But this area between Biblos and Batroun still has some breathtaking unspoilt spots.

This means that the family can concentrate on organising and supporting the symposium without conflict of interest.

The rest of Rachana village is packed with sculpture, studios and houses made by the Basbous family.

... and still have the energy and commitment to organise and run this symposium to host 5 foreign sculptors every year.

As far as I can tell any member of the Basbous family who is not a sculptor is an architect, poet, filmaker, or designer!

When asked why he was doing this by a journalist who could not understand why he was not preoccupied by the civil war, Michel reportedly said "While you are all destroying things somebody should be creative"

Michel`s son Anachar also works in stone, wood and metal, and again it is Anachar`s work in metal which I found the most interesting, particularly when he uses the colours from heating the metal to amplify the form.

Michel`s work is also in the Hakone Open Air Museum near Tokyo.

Not sure how many sculptors we met!？

Culture shock - Kata switched on the TV in the hotel room to get a quick impression of Lebanon to find the Japanese cartoon "Digimon" in Arabic! (KT)

Then had to race back into Edinburgh for a couple of meetings and speed shopping for all the essentials I cannot get in Japan, getting films developed for my slide show in Lebanon, etc.. before making a token effort at helping Mum with preparations for this evening`s party. (KT)

Ann chan, Kata, Emily, Sean and I then went into the Royal Mile in Edinburgh to catch some of the Edinburgh International Festival atmosphere.

Kata and I managed to also see our sculptor friend Jim Buckley and his wife`s Fringe show later in the evening - after which they took us out for a great meal and too many Margerittas! (A lovely fee for packing up all those sculptures for you Jim - thank you) (KT)

The flight was late arriving in London so we had to really hussle to make the connection to Edinburgh. (KT)

Gary then cooked us a wonderful meal of roast lamb with all the trimmings - followed by more good wine and totally anarchic card games. A wonderful break after all the hectic preparations for the trip tomorrow - thank you all. (KT)

Pretending that we have a quiet country life for Ellie`s benefit.

Kata`s latest computer upgrade.